From Military Zones to Million-Euro Views: The Untold History of Albania’s Coastline

Sometimes, when I’m standing on a balcony overlooking the Ionian Sea—maybe in a sleek new apartment in Saranda or a hilltop villa in Borsh—I have to pause and remind myself how far this coastline has come. I mean, if you’d told someone 30 years ago that people would be buying beachfront property here for €1 million, they’d have laughed out loud over their raki.

But here we are.

Albania’s Riviera—especially the stretch from Saranda down to Ksamil and beyond—has undergone one of the most fascinating transformations in the Mediterranean. And as someone who’s lived in Saranda for years, working in real estate and falling in love with this region every single day, I’ve had a front-row seat to it all.

Hidden Past, Glorious Present

You wouldn’t know it from today’s glossy drone videos and Instagram reels, but a lot of this coastline used to be completely off-limits. Literally.

During the communist regime, much of the southern coast was designated as a military zone. Locals weren’t allowed to build, tourists couldn’t access it, and even some Albanians needed special permission just to visit family here. The land was protected not for its beauty, but for its strategic value.

There are still bunkers scattered along the cliffs—concrete reminders of that era. Some have been taken over by artists and turned into quirky cafes or even Airbnb stays (yes, really). Others just sit there, facing the sea like relics from another world.

Today, those same hills that once held watchtowers are now home to seaview apartments with glass balconies, infinity pools, and floor-to-ceiling windows. I truly believe Saranda offers the best value on the entire Mediterranean coast. It’s not just about the price—it’s the lifestyle, the scenery, the culture. The whole package.

The Boom We Never Expected

Last week, I showed a client a stunning property in Ksamil, right near the water. The view was so perfect, she literally gasped when we opened the terrace doors. And honestly, even after all these years, I still get that same reaction myself.

This wasn’t the plan. At least not back then.

The rise of Saranda and Ksamil as real estate hotspots wasn’t some carefully laid government strategy. It happened organically. Slowly at first—mostly Albanians from Tirana or expats who stumbled upon it while backpacking. But now? Now we’re seeing international investors, retirees from Scandinavia, digital nomads from Germany, and even buyers from the UAE and the US.

Many of them are drawn to the affordable properties with panoramic views, like this luxury villa in Saranda. And who can blame them?

I had a couple from Sweden who bought an apartment in Saranda last year. They now spend half the year here. The husband told me he wakes up earlier just to catch the sunrise over Corfu. He used to sleep in until 10. That’s the magic of this place.

From Dirt Roads to Designer Residences

Back in the early 2000s, getting to Ksamil was… a mission. Bumpy roads, no signage, and good luck finding a decent coffee spot. Now? You can cruise down Butrinti Street in Saranda, stop for a freddo espresso, and tour developments like Fabeno Residence or even scope out investment projects that are still in the early phases—this one’s my current favorite.

Don’t get me wrong—there’s still a certain rawness to it. And I think that’s part of the appeal. It hasn’t lost its soul. You still see goats crossing the road near Lukova. There’s a small taverna near Borsh beach that most tourists overlook, but I always take clients there after viewings. Fresh grilled fish, mountain tea, and a sunset that makes you forget your phone exists.

One of my clients—originally from London—said something that stuck with me: “It’s like Greece twenty years ago, before everything became… curated.” I think he nailed it.

The Stories Behind the Stones

You can’t fully understand this place without knowing its stories. There’s something poetic about walking on ancient ruins in Butrint in the morning, then sipping wine on a modern rooftop by evening.

Many of the new buyers are surprised to learn how deep the roots go here. This land has seen empires, battles, trade routes, and quiet resistance. And now? Now it’s becoming a place of rest, investment, and in many cases, a second chance at a different life.

I’ve had clients cry tears of joy when they close on their dream seaview apartment. I’ve also seen the other side—where someone misses out because they waited too long or underestimated how fast things are changing here.

Let me be real for a second: prices are rising. Fast. The days of buying a beachfront apartment in Ksamil for €50,000 are gone. But you can still find incredible value compared to anywhere else on the Mediterranean. You just need someone local to guide you (hi, that’s me).